Name: Smith & Wesson Model 48 .22 Mag Pistol 4" Blued Barrel 6 Rounds
Brand: Smith & Wesson
SKU: 150717
Price: 1069 USD
Availability: InStock
Rating: 5.0 (20 reviews)

<p>
	In July, Serbian President Aleksandar Vucic decided to ban arms exports for 30 days. This is a result of the United States sanctioning Serbia's spy chief for the illegal trade of arms. Serbia says it's because they need to fulfill the needs of the Serbian army and maintain combat readiness for the Balkan region.</p><p>
	Defense Minister Miloš Vučević says,"It does not mean Serbia is going to war or calling for war, but we are looking at all security risks and challenges."</p><p>
	Since the ban has gone past 30 days, no official dialogue has been released that has lifted the ban, which was set up to be allowed to extend another 30 days indefinitely.</p><p>
	At the time, Zastava's factory in Serbia had said that exports are going to continue. Zastava is currently the fastest growing AK brand on the market and the demand for their Serbian AK-47's is at an all time high. Thankfully, DEGuns acquired a large amount of Zastava inventory prior to the ban. You can find the entire lineup of Zastava AK's on their brand page&nbsp;
	<a href="https://www.deguns.net/brands/zastava-arms-usa">Zastava Arms USA</a>.&nbsp;</p><p>
	The short answer is No, Zastava Ak-47's are not officially banned from import. However, the Serbian government has not made it clear when and how normal operations will resume.</p><h2>Serbia's Recent Conflicts, Arms Export Ban, and the Surging Demand for Zastava AK-47s in the USA</h2><p>
	Serbia, nestled in the heart of the Balkans, has a history marked by a series of conflicts and political complexities. These challenges have left an indelible mark on the nation's trajectory, influencing its policies, economy, and international relations. This article delves into Serbia's recent conflicts, explores the ramifications of its decision to ban arms exports due to corruption, and assesses how this ban has sparked increased demand for Zastava AK-47s in the United States.</p><h3>Serbia's Recent Conflicts</h3><h4>Yugoslav Wars (1991-2001)</h4><p>
	The Yugoslav Wars, spanning a decade from 1991 to 2001, marked one of the most turbulent periods in Serbia's history. These wars erupted in the aftermath of the dissolution of Yugoslavia, pitting various ethnic groups against one another in a deadly struggle for territory and autonomy.</p><p>
	Serbia, as the largest and most influential republic within Yugoslavia, was central to these conflicts. The wars included the Croatian War of Independence, the Bosnian War, and the Kosovo War. These conflicts resulted in widespread loss of life, displacement of populations, and extensive economic devastation.</p><h4>Kosovo Conflict (1998-1999)</h4><p>
	Among these conflicts, the Kosovo War stands out prominently. It involved Serbian forces clashing with Kosovo Albanian separatists, eventually leading to NATO intervention. The war concluded with Kosovo declaring independence from Serbia in 2008, a move Serbia has never recognized, continuing to view Kosovo as an integral part of its territory.</p><h4>Post-Conflict Rebuilding</h4><p>
	Following the Yugoslav Wars and the Kosovo Conflict, Serbia embarked on a challenging journey of reconstruction. The nation had to rebuild its economy, infrastructure, and political institutions while grappling with the profound social and psychological scars left by the conflicts. Serbia aimed to reintegrate into the international community and reestablish itself as a stable nation.</p><h4>The Kosovo Issue</h4><p>
	The status of Kosovo remains a contentious and unresolved issue, straining Serbia's international relations. Serbia's refusal to acknowledge Kosovo's independence has hindered its progress toward European Union (EU) membership and sustained regional tensions.&nbsp;</p><h4>Corruption Challenges</h4><p>
	Corruption has been an ongoing challenge in Serbia, affecting various sectors, including law enforcement, politics, and business. The presence of corruption has raised concerns about the misuse of firearms, prompting Serbia to take measures to address these issues.</p><h4>Serbia's Arms Export Ban Due to Corruption</h4><p>
	Serbia has faced mounting criticism and international pressure over allegations of corruption within its arms industry. This has raised concerns regarding the illicit trade of firearms and the potential consequences for both domestic and international security. In response to these allegations and international scrutiny, Serbia's President Aleksandar Vucic made the decision to ban arms exports. This ban was initially intended to last for 30 days but has continued indefinitely. The government cited the need to fulfill the requirements of the Serbian army and maintain combat readiness in the volatile Balkan region.</p><h5>Impact on the Arms Industry</h5><p>
	Serbia has a well-established arms industry, with Zastava Arms being a prominent manufacturer, known for its production of a wide range of firearms, including the highly sought-after Zastava AK-47. The export ban directly affects these manufacturers and their revenue streams. The arms industry has been a significant contributor to Serbia's economy, and this ban has the potential to lead to economic challenges and job losses within the sector.</p><h5>Addressing Corruption</h5><p>
	The arms export ban underscores Serbia's commitment to tackling corruption within its arms industry and ensuring responsible arms trade practices. By imposing this ban, Serbia aims to improve transparency, accountability, and the integrity of its arms trade, aligning with international standards and expectations.&nbsp;</p><h5>Diplomatic Consequences</h5><p>
	The ban on arms exports may have diplomatic repercussions, potentially straining Serbia's relations with countries that have relied on Serbian arms. Furthermore, it may impact Serbia's aspirations for EU membership, as the EU places significant emphasis on combating corruption and ensuring responsible arms exports.</p><h5>Surging Demand for Zastava AK-47s in the USA&nbsp;</h5><p>
	Amidst Serbia's decision to ban arms exports, particularly the renowned Zastava AK, the United States has seen a surge in demand for these firearms. The Zastava AK has garnered a strong following among firearms enthusiasts in the US, and its popularity has been steadily rising. If there is a disruption in the supply chain from Serbia, American consumers and firearms dealers will seek alternatives to meet their demand for these iconic rifles.</p><p>
	1. Popularity of Zastava AK-47s:
Zastava AK-47s have gained a reputation for their reliability, affordability, and performance. As a result, they have become a favored choice among firearm enthusiasts and collectors. The ban on Serbian exports has intensified interest in these firearms, contributing to increased demand in the US market.</p><p>
	2. Impact on Prices:
The heightened demand for Zastava AK-47s in the USA may lead to higher prices due to limited availability and increased competition among buyers. This price increase could impact both consumers and dealers in the firearms market.</p><p>
	3. Legal Considerations:
The surge in demand for Zastava AK-47s in the United States may also prompt legal considerations. US authorities may closely monitor the importation and sale of these firearms to ensure compliance with regulations and prevent any potential diversion into the illicit arms trade.</p><p>
	Serbia's recent conflicts, coupled with the decision to ban arms exports due to corruption concerns, underscore the complex challenges the nation faces. While Serbia has made substantial progress in rebuilding and stabilizing since the Yugoslav Wars and the Kosovo Conflict, ongoing political and diplomatic tensions, particularly regarding Kosovo, remain.</p><p>
	The arms export ban reflects Serbia's commitment to addressing corruption, enhancing transparency, and promoting responsible arms trade practices. However, it also has significant economic and diplomatic implications. Balancing these factors will be crucial for Serbia's future stability and prosperity.</p><p>
	Simultaneously, the surge in demand for Zastava AK-47s in the United States highlights the global reach of firearms manufacturing and trade. The popularity of these rifles among American enthusiasts has led to increased demand and potential shifts in market dynamics.</p><p>
	As Serbia navigates these complex challenges, it must consider the domestic and international factors at play, aiming for a stable and prosperous future while addressing issues of corruption and promoting responsible arms trade practices.</p>


	In July, Serbian President Aleksandar Vucic decided to ban arms exports for 30 days. This is a result of the United States sanctioning Serbia's spy chief for the illegal trade of arms. Serbia says it's because they need to fulfill the needs of the Serbian army and maintain combat readiness for the Balkan region.
	Defense Minister [...]

Are Zastava Serbian AK-47's banned from import?

<h2>What is a Class 3 Dealer?</h2><p>
	A person or business that has a Type 01 Federal Firearms License that has a class 3 tax stamp that allows them to posses and transfer Title II NFA firearms.</p><h2>What are NFA firearms?</h2><p>
	The National Firearms Act enacted on June 26, 1934 in general, imposes a statutory excise tax on the manufacture and transfer of certain firearms and mandates the registration of those firearms. The Act was passed shortly after the repeal of Prohibition. The NFA is also referred to as Title II of the Federal firearms laws. The Tax amount is usually $200 depending on the type firearm. The Most common NFA Items are: Silencers, Short Barrel Rifles (SBR) and Machine Guns.</p><h2>How can I transfer or purchase a NFA item?</h2><h3>1. Register the NFA item to a trust</h3><p>Advantages of registering to a trust:</p><ol>
	<li>No signature is required from chief law-enforcement officer</li>	<li>You only need to create the trust once. The same trust can be used for all future NFA items such as short barreled rifles machine-guns or any other weapons.</li>	<li>Fingerprint cards are required</li>	<li>Anyone listed as a trustee in the trust can be in possession of the suppressor</li>	<li>A revocable trust can be changed at any time without notifying the ATF</li></ol><h3>2. Register the NFA item to a corporation</h3><p>
	Advantages of registering to a corporation:</p><ol>
	<li>No signature is required from chief law-enforcement officer</li>	<li>Fingerprint cards are required</li>	<li>Any officer of the corporation can be in possession of the suppressor</li>	<li>If you already have a corporation, this can be easier than a trust since you will avoid the initial trust setup</li></ol><h3>3. Register the NFA item in your own name</h3><p>
	You can avoid initial work required to setup a trust or corporation. You have to remember that only you can be in possession of the NFA Item. This Requires signature from chief law-enforcement officer where you live and fingerprint cards.</p><p>
	Here at DEGuns we want to simplify the process as much as possible and we will explain how the transfer process works. NFA transfers can take anywhere from 2-9 month and you have to remember the process starts when your paperwork is sent the the NFA Branch for approval. It is very important to have everything needed. We do not give legal advice or sell trusts.</p><h2>Registration and Requirements</h2><p>The process of acquiring a Class 3 firearm, or a National Firearms Act (NFA) device, can be straightforward and relatively easy once you understand the necessary steps. Here's a more detailed guide to facilitate the process:</p><ol><li>Select your firearm: Start by choosing the Class 3 weapon that you're interested in purchasing. This could be anything from a machine gun, suppressor, or short-barrelled rifle, to other types of NFA regulated devices. Keep in mind that different states have varied regulations regarding these devices, and it's crucial to ensure that your desired firearm complies with your state's laws.</li><li>Complete the Form 4 with your dealer: Form 4, or the Application for Tax Paid Transfer and Registration of Firearm, is a necessary document when purchasing a Class 3 weapon. This form should be filled out with the help of your firearms dealer, who will assist in providing pertinent information regarding the device you're buying.</li><li>Acquire necessary photos and fingerprints: You must have a set of passport-sized photos and fingerprint cards to include with your application. These are used for identification purposes and are part of the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (ATF) background check process.</li><li>Submission of documents: After gathering all necessary documentation, including your completed Form 4, photographs, and fingerprints, send it to the ATF for processing.</li><li>Waiting period: The approval process for purchasing a Class 3 weapon typically takes several months. During this time, the ATF performs extensive background checks.</li><li>Collection of the device: Once the ATF approves your application, you can then pick up your Class 3 firearm from the dealer. The timing of this can vary based on several factors, including the type of firearm and your location.</li></ol><p>In essence, the process is straightforward, although it may involve some additional paperwork depending on the specific firearm you're purchasing and the laws of your state.</p><p>Several misconceptions often surround the ownership of NFA devices, and it's crucial to address these to ensure you're well-informed:</p><ul><li>House Searches: ATF or other law enforcement agencies cannot randomly search your home for your NFA device. However, they can request to see the device if there's a valid reason for doing so.</li><li>Tax Stamp Documentation: Although you receive an original tax stamp (proof of payment of the excise tax for your firearm) when your Form 4 is approved, you're not required to carry it with you at all times. A copy will suffice for most situations, but ensure the original is kept safe.</li><li>Change of Location: Should you relocate, it's essential to notify the ATF of the new location of your NFA device.</li><li>Reselling NFA Devices: You can't sell your NFA device without the buyer completing a Form 4 transfer. The buyer must undergo the same process you did, including the payment of the tax and approval by the ATF.</li><li>Nature of the Tax Stamp: The tax stamp is not a license but rather an indication that you've paid the required tax on your NFA device.</li></ul><p>Acquiring an NFA device like a suppressor or a short-barrelled rifle doesn't pose any significant burden, provided you follow the rules and regulations stipulated by the ATF and safely store your tax stamp.</p>

What is a Class 3 Dealer?
	A person or business that has a Type 01 Federal Firearms License that has a class 3 tax stamp that allows them to posses and transfer Title II NFA firearms.What are NFA firearms?
	The National Firearms Act enacted on June 26, 1934 in general, imposes a statutory excise tax on the [...]

How to Buy a Class 3 NFA Item From a Class 3 Dealer

<h2>How to Zero Your Optic or Scope</h2><p>
	Whether you’re sport shooter, hunter, prepared citizen, or all three, your rifle is as useless as an ejection seat in a helicopter if you haven’t learned how to zero your scope or optic. In this post, we’ll teach you how to zero your scope or 
	<a href="https://www.deguns.net/optics-scopes-and-sights">optics</a> in 3 easy steps, as well as all the materials needed to do so.</p><h3>What you’ll need:</h3><ul>
	<li>Paper targets with a standard .5” grid pattern printed on them, preferably large ones</li>	<li>Your optic’s user manual</li>	<li>A flathead screw driver (depending on your particular optic’s windage/elevation control)</li>	<li>An allen wrench (whatever size is needed to tighten/loosen the screws that fasten your optic to your weapon’s rail)</li>	<li><a href="https://www.deguns.net/ammo">Ammo</a> (preferably the same ammunition you plan on firing after you’re zeroed)</li>	<li>A&nbsp;<a href="https://www.deguns.net/search?q=boresights">boresight</a></li>	<li>A <a href="https://www.deguns.net/spotting-scopes">spotting scope</a></li></ul><h3>Step 1: Preparation</h3><p>
	Now that you have the above materials and tools gathered, let’s go through a preliminary check:</p><p>
	Distance: Decide the distance at which you plan to zero your optics. This should be a distance from which you are both comfortable shooting and reasonable for your particular rifle’s effective range. At minimum, 25 yards is recommended for optics with minimal or no zoom function, such as standard reflex sights,&nbsp;<a href="https://www.gunmade.com/best-red-dot-sights-for-ar-15/">red dot sights</a>, and tactical scopes. 
	<a href="https://www.deguns.net/rifle-scopes">Rifle scopes</a> with higher magnification should be sighted at 50 or more yards. You want to decide what distance you will most likely be using it. Don’t worry, if you are wondering “what if my shot is outside of that zero range?”. It is completely possible to shoot outside of this designated zero if necessary by just lowering or raising the crosshair according to your ammunitions trajectory.</p><p>
	Each caliber will yield different trajectory characteristics that are necessary to know in assessing how much to raise or lower the reticule when firing at targets outside of your zero range, be they closer or further than that zero distance. For example, if you are zeroed at 50 yards and your bullet is still on its way up at 100 yards, you may need to lower your reticule a certain amount when aiming for targets at 100 yards. If it’s on its way down at 200 yards, then you may need to raise your reticule when firing at targets that are 200 yards away. Again, it all depends on what your particular bullets are doing at a given range.</p><p>
	Secured Optic: Make darn sure that your scope or reflex sight is securely fastened to your firearm’s rail. This is where the allen wrench comes into play. If your optics aren’t secure, the recoil from your shots can move the position of the optic itself and/or the reticule ever so slightly, negating any fine tuning you have done up to that point. Understand that even the slightest change in reticule or optic position will yield a depreciating effect on accuracy that only intensifies at longer distances.</p><h3>Step 2: Hitting the Paper Target</h3><p>
	Whether your optic of choice is a rifle scope or 
	<a href="https://www.deguns.net/firefield-impact-xlt-reflex-sight/p">reflex sight</a>, you need to obtain hits – any hits – on paper as a point of reference before you can begin fine tuning your zero. Simply put, you need visual confirmation of where your shots are hitting so that you can contrast these hits against what you see when you aim the reticule at the desired area of the target. Even simpler put, you can’t correct a problem until you identify what’s causing it.</p><p>
	When learning how to zero your optic or scope, you now need to take your first three shots at the paper. Be sure to aim your reticule as close as you can on the same spot every time. To clarify, shooting in groups ensures that shooter error has minimal effect on the zeroing process and that we can consistently hit a given target where we want to.</p><p>
	The practical test is that when three shots are fired while aiming at the same area of the target, they land relatively close together. Keep in mind that at this stage, it doesn’t matter so much whether or not these shots land where your reticule is aimed, but rather that they are hitting the same area of the target. For example, if your reticule is aimed at the bottom right of the target, and all three shots are grouped together at the bottom left, we can be sure in our consistency and be confident that shooter error won’t cause a problem when calculating the next adjustment.</p><p>
	Suffice it to say, if you hit the paper at all and you have tight groups, it’s time to move to the next step in the zeroing process.</p><p>
	If you AREN’T on the paper, then it’s time to employ a boresighter to get on it. Understand that boresighters don’t zero optics, but rather offer a starting point to get on paper so that the shooter may then zero in. Using a boresighter is simple. Attach it to your rifle, turn it on, and then line up your optic’s reticule to the point generated by the boresighter. From there, you should be able to get on the paper.</p><h3>Step 3: Fine Tuning Your Optics to Zero</h3><p>
	Assuming that you are firing from a consistent range and are hitting the paper, it’s time to fine tune your sights. All optics, regardless of make or model, come equipped with elevation and windage knobs, allowing precise control of the reticule’s x and y axis. The elevation knob is responsible for adjusting the vertical position of the reticule, and the windage knob is responsible for adjusting the horizontal position of the reticule.</p><p>
	These knobs are “stepped”, meaning that with each click sound heard and/or felt as a knob is turned, predictable bullet movement is ensured. Previously, we suggested that you use targets with a .5” grid pattern. This comes into play with the stepped knobs because with each step on a knob, a precise amount of bullet movement can be expected at a given range.</p><p>
	This is the point at which you should consult your optic’s user manual to determine how many clicks it takes to move your shots a given amount at a given distance. Once you know how many clicks equal 1 or ½ inches of bullet movement for your particular optics at a given range, you can easily calculate how many clicks it will take to move your shots “2 inches to the left and 6 inches up”- or whatever is needed – using the .5” grid background as your reference for calculation. Depending on your distance to target and your eyesight, a spotting scope may be needed to see the grid pattern well enough to make your calculations. At 50 yards or more, you will most definitely need one to make these judgments accurately.</p><p>
	For example, if a single click yields .5” of bullet movement at a range of 50 yards, then moving shot placement 2” down and 4” to the right will take 4 clicks down and 8 clicks to the right.</p><p>
	Don’t forget to fire your shots in groups of 3 each time in order to ensure consistency and accuracy in your adjustments.</p>

Whether you're sport shooter, hunter, prepared citizen, or all three, your rifle is as useless as an ejection seat in a helicopter if you haven't learned how to zero your scope or optic. In this post, we’ll teach you how to zero your scope in 3 easy steps.

How to Zero Your Optic or Scope
	Whether you’re sport shooter, hunter, prepared citizen, or all three, your rifle is as useless as an ejection seat in a helicopter if you haven’t learned how to zero your scope or optic. In this post, we’ll teach you how to zero your scope or 
	optics in 3 easy [...]

Zeroing a Scope in 3 Easy Steps

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<h2>Smith &amp; Wesson Model 48 .22 Mag Pistol</h2> <p>Smith &amp; Wesson makes it possible for you to own a piece of history-in-the-making with the Smith &amp; Wesson Model 48 .22 Mag Pistol. They're the finest new handguns possible with their wood grip designs harkening back to the most famous and collectible guns that Smith &amp; Wesson ever constructed. Each is based on a model known for legendary performance then enhanced with modern advantages. They're the timeless best of both worlds,­ Smith &amp; Wesson Classics.</p> <h2>MODEL 48 PISTOL INTERNAL LOCK MECHANISM</h2> <p>This feature prevents ham- mer and trigger motion when locked. On revolvers with internal lock mechanisms, markings on the left side of the frame, adjacent to the lock, indicate the locking direction. In addition, revolvers with fully exposed hammers display a flag marked “LOCKED” when the revolver is locked. This lock requires an external key to engage and to disengage the revolver lock. The lock is located adjacent to and slightly over the thumb-piece.</p> <h3>HOW TO ENGAGE THE LOCK</h3> <ul> <li>Open the cylinder and ensure the revolver is completely unloaded.</li> <li>Hold the revolver with the cylinder open in one hand. Insert the key and turn it counter-clockwise using the other hand. The key will turn approximately 90 degrees. The locked indicator flag will become visible on revolvers with exposed hammers.</li> <li>A definite stop and detent will be felt when the key is turned to either the locked or the unlocked position</li> </ul> <h3>TO DISENGAGE THE LOCK</h3> <p>With the cylinder open, hold the revolver in one hand. Insert the key and turn it approximately 90 degrees in a clockwise direction using the other hand until the flag returns to its hidden, un- locked position on revolvers with exposed hammers.</p> <p>A definite stop and detent will be felt when the key is turned to either the locked or the unlocked position.</p> <p>1) With your finger off of the trigger and outside of the trigger guard, place the thumb of your shooting hand on the hammer and pull fully rearward to ensure the hammer is in the fully cocked position.</p> <p>2.) With your finger still off of the trigger and outside of the trigger guard and the revolver pointed in a safe direction, unlock the lock using the key provided.</p> <p>3.) Follow the decocking procedure to decock the revolver. Always assume that the revolver is loaded while following this procedure.</p> <p>4.) Open the cylinder and verify that the revolver is unloaded.</p> <p>• The position of the cylinder has no relationship to the locked status of the revolver.</p> <p>• When the revolver is properly locked, the cylinder may be opened or closed.</p> <h2>LOADING THE S&amp;W MODEL 48</h2> <ul> <li>Never load your revolver until you have read and fully understand this manual.</li> <li>Do not load the revolver until you are ready to use it. Keep your fin- ger off the trigger and outside the trigger guard until you are ready to fire.</li> <li>Never load your revolver until you are at the shooting site and fully prepared to fire.</li> <li>If your internal lock is engaged, unlock it before proceeding.</li> <li>To load your revolver, hold it in one hand with the muzzle pointed in a safe direction and away from you and others.</li> <li>Keep your finger off the trigger and out of the trigger guard.</li> <li>Press the thumbpiece forward to unlock the cylinder.</li> <li>Push the cylinder to the left and place a round of the correct am- munition in each charge hole.</li> <li>Grasp the revolver in the shooting hand with your finger still out- side the trigger guard.</li> <li>Push the cylinder back into the frame until it locks into place.</li> <li>Your revolver is now fully loaded. The ham- mer is in the “at rest” position as shown in.</li> </ul> <h2>FIRING S&amp;W MODEL 48</h2> <ul> <li>Always use the proper grip as shown for a two-hand hold. This keeps hands and fingers away from the barrel/cylinder gap.</li> <li>Never allow hands or fingers to extend beyond the front of the cylinder when firing. This is an improper hold for any revolver.</li> <li>There are two ways to fire your Smith &amp; Wesson revolver. The first is in the double action mode, wherein the shooter fully pulls and holds the trigger to the rear, causing the hammer to fully cycle rearward and then release.</li> <li>The second way to fire a revolver is in the single action mode, in which the hammer is first cocked and the trigger is then pulled and held to the rear. A lesser amount of trigger pressure and travel are necessary to fire the revolver when the hammer is in the cocked position. It is your responsibility to exercise great care in handling a revolver especially when it has been placed in the single action or cocked mode.</li> <li>WARNING: “STAGING” THE TRIGGER (KEEPING TENSION ON THE TRIGGER) VIOLATES A BASIC RULE OF FIREARM SAFETY WHICH WARNS YOU TO KEEP YOUR</li> <li>FINGER OUT OF THE TRIGGER GUARD UNTIL YOU HAVE MADE THE COMMITMENT TO FIRE. “STAGING” CREATES A SERIOUS RISK OF PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH SINCE IT MAY LEAD TO AN UNINTENTIONAL DISCHARGE.</li> </ul> <p>• It has come to our attention that some users of Smith &amp; Wesson handguns may stage the trigger in anticipation of firing a shot. Staging is the act of pulling the trigger rearward toward — stop- ping just short of — the point where the hammer falls and the handgun fires. Such manipulation of the trigger can reduce the user’s control of the handgun and can result in an unintentional discharge. Furthermore if the user decides not to fire, release of the trigger from a position close to the firing point in the staging process could result in an unintended discharge.</p> <h2>FIRING CONTINUED DOUBLE ACTION FIRING</h2> <ul> <li>Never touch the trigger until you are ready to fire.</li> <li>To fire the handgun, pull the trigger fully to the rear. The hammer will move rearward and then fall forward to fire the revolver. After firing, you must allow the trigger</li> <li>to move forward fully before you</li> <li>can fire another shot. Failure to do so will prevent the lockwork from fully cycling and will prevent you from being able to fire the next shot.</li> <li>Keep your finger off the trigger</li> <li>and outside the trigger guard</li> <li>until you are ready to fire again.</li> <li>Do not touch or otherwise interfere with the travel of the hammer during double action firing.</li> <li>SINGLE ACTION FIRING</li> <li>Never touch the trigger until you are ready to fire.</li> <li>To fire the handgun, place your non-shooting hand on the hammer spur.</li> <li>Pull the hammer fully rearward until it is cocked. The action of pulling the hammer to the rear until it is cocked will also cause the trigger to move rearward. The revolver will now fire in the single action mode, requiring significantly less trigger pressure and significantly less travel than in the double action mode.</li> <li>Pull the trigger and hold it rearward.</li> <li>After firing, you must allow the trigger to move fully forward before you can fire another shot. Failure to do so will prevent the lock work from fully cycling and will prevent your being able to fire the next shot. Keep your finger off the trigger and outside the trigger guard until you are ready to fire again.</li> <li>WARNING: ONLY PLACE THE REVOLVER IN THE SINGLE ACTION MODE WHEN YOU ARE FULLY PREPARED TO FIRE.</li> </ul> <h2>DECOCKING</h2> <p>• If you decide not to fire in single action from a cocked position, continue to point the firearm</p> <p>in a safe direction and then decock the revolver as follows:</p> <ul> <li>1.) Place the thumb of your free hand between the hammer and the frame of the handgun to prevent the hammer from moving fully forward until your finger is off the trigger and out of the trigger guard.</li> <li>2.) Place the thumb of your firing hand on the hammer spur. You must always control the hammer with your thumbs when decocking the handgun. If the hammer slips while the trigger is held to the rear and you have failed to block the hammer travel, your handgun will fire.</li> <li>3.) Apply pressure to the trigger to release the hammer as shown. Immediately after the hammer has come out of cocked position, release the trigger and withdraw your finger from the trigger guard.</li> <li>WARNING: FAILURE TO REMOVE YOUR FINGER FROM THE TRIGGER GUARD AS SOON AS THE HAMMER RELEASES COULD CAUSE THE REVOLVER TO FIRE IF YOUR THUMB SLIPS OFF OF THE HAMMER SPUR.</li> <li>4.) Carefully ease the hammer forward while removing your other thumb from between the hammer and frame until the hammer is in the “at rest” position.</li> <li>5.) Practice this procedure with your unloaded revolver until you have mastered decocking. Always be aware of the hammer position. Never hol- ster, carry or store a cocked revolver. Be sure the hammer is in the “at rest” position</li> <li>as shown after decocking.</li> </ul> <h2>DECOCKING CONTINUED</h2> <h3>CAUTION: Incomplete Decocking</h3> <p>Failure to release the trigger and to withdraw your finger from the trigger guard immediately after the hammer has come out of the cocked position may result in the interruption of the forward movement of the hammer between the cocked position and the “at rest” position. In this case, the hammer will appear to have stopped in between the full cock and “at rest” positions. If this occurs, keep your finger off the trigger and out of the trigger guard while returning the hammer with your thumb to the fully cocked position. Then properly decock the hammer to the “at rest” position following the decocking procedures outlined above.</p> <h2>Owner's Manual:</h2> <p><a href="https://snwcdnprod.azureedge.net/sites/default/files/owners-manuals/S%26W_JKLN_Revolver_Manual_112119_416560000.pdf" data-mce-href="https://snwcdnprod.azureedge.net/sites/default/files/owners-manuals/S%26W_JKLN_Revolver_Manual_112119_416560000.pdf">Owner's Manual</a></p> <h2>Features and Specifications:</h2> <p>Model: 48</p> <p>Caliber: .22 Magnum</p> <p>Capacity: 6 Rounds</p> <p>Barrel Length: 4" / 10.2 cm</p> <p>Front Sight: Pinned Patridge</p> <p>Rear Sight: Micro-Adjustable</p> <p>Overall Length: 9.25" / 23.5 cm</p> <p>Action: Single/Double Action</p> <p>Frame Size: Medium - Exposed Hammer</p> <p>Weight: 37.6 oz / 1,066.0 g</p> <p>Grip: Wood</p> <p>Material: Carbon Steel Frame</p> <p>Carbon Steel Cylinder</p> <p>Finish: Bright Blue</p> <p>Purpose: Collector's Interest</p> <p>Recreational</p> <p>Home Protection</p> <p>Handgun Hunting</p> <p>SKU: 150717</p> <p>UPC: 022188142259</p>

Smith & Wesson Model 48 .22 Mag Pistol 4" Blued Barrel 6 Rounds